tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7380631593644516380.post5937882829362990105..comments2024-03-17T09:59:25.470-07:00Comments on Making Handmade Books: Instructions: Drum Leaf BindingAlisahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04649805582936306865noreply@blogger.comBlogger9125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7380631593644516380.post-59933959531031822702021-02-25T16:51:18.136-08:002021-02-25T16:51:18.136-08:00HI Viki,
Thanks for reading. The blank pages that ...HI Viki,<br />Thanks for reading. The blank pages that you are seeing are the backs of the larger paper that was painted on one side only. The wax paper is only there so that you don't end up gluing the pages together: they are placed between pages that have already been glued together. Trimming the wax paper is only needed if you can't see where you are gluing. You remove the wax paper sheets once the book is dry. I hope that helps! And you can find more detailed info on bookmaking in general in Making Handmade Books (the book). Good luck!<br />-AlisaAlisahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04649805582936306865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7380631593644516380.post-75744265278341445602021-02-25T16:39:09.653-08:002021-02-25T16:39:09.653-08:00So in the first few steps I noticed that there are...So in the first few steps I noticed that there are blank pages from where we folded the papers in half... Then you go through from back to front and glue in wax paper... in which step did you add the additional colorful pages and trim the wax paper down to size?<br /> I am a beginner so I feel like there might be some direction missing that would be more obvious if I were more experienced?Vikihttp://randomcraftacular.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7380631593644516380.post-78377170792503148192016-05-26T05:38:21.141-07:002016-05-26T05:38:21.141-07:00Your instructions are very detailed and clear. I a...Your instructions are very detailed and clear. I actually made a book with a drum leaf binding without knowing it. I had 3 double-page spreads which I wanted to combine into a book for an exhibit called "in your dreams". This was the only way I could figure out how to do it, just using logic and experimentation. I only found out later that it was an actual binding method! Here is a link in case you want to see what I did:<br />http://sharmond.blogspot.com/2012/07/book-of-dreams-middle-pages-uh-oh.htmlSharmon Davidsonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12857659019638341374noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7380631593644516380.post-53615188975169158812012-07-27T09:08:03.318-07:002012-07-27T09:08:03.318-07:00Excellent. Sounds like same measurement works best...Excellent. Sounds like same measurement works best for our purposes. Thanks, Ellen!Alisahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04649805582936306865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7380631593644516380.post-33939622198028929012012-07-27T01:30:50.775-07:002012-07-27T01:30:50.775-07:00Just to get back to you on this... I've been l...Just to get back to you on this... I've been looking at a lot of commercial board books lately. It seems that the gap is usually the same thickness as the spine, but occasionally I've found some where this is not the case. The biggest size difference I've come across is a gap that's a quarter of an inch smaller than a 1.125" spine (still pretty close). To my eye, on handmade books of this sort, I've decided I prefer the measurements to match. It will open and lie flat if the gap is a little smaller, but when it folds out, at least with the sorts of printmaking-style papers I've been using for covers, it doesn't look as tidy as when the measurements are the same. It looks best when the gap in the cover forms a square (looked at from the end) when the book is fully open. When the measurements are different, it forms more of an angle and is a tighter fit around the pages. This appears to be less of a problem with the heavy stock used in commercial books, but softer printmaking papers flop a bit, at least in my experience.Paper Chipmunk (aka Ellen)https://www.blogger.com/profile/15014954266777016841noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7380631593644516380.post-70963968411267633182012-07-09T16:03:26.078-07:002012-07-09T16:03:26.078-07:00Hi Ellen,
Very good to hear!
Re: the spine
The sp...Hi Ellen,<br />Very good to hear! <br />Re: the spine<br />The spine has to flex and that extra fold/gap is what allows it to lie flat when open. My guess is that yes, you would need to make the space equal to the spine thickness. But that is a guess. I haven't spent much time with this binding yet; making the model is the only way to find out. One of us will have to come back and share the answer…Alisahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04649805582936306865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7380631593644516380.post-31243474739755647122012-07-09T14:21:30.522-07:002012-07-09T14:21:30.522-07:00Thanks much for this. I've looked for good ins...Thanks much for this. I've looked for good instructions for a drum leaf binding, and these are the clearest instructions I've come across. <br /><br />I'm also working on some board books at the moment with this type of spine with the extra score. I'm curious--would you always make the space for the unglued part on the back the same width as the spine? Even if the book has a relatively thick spine?Paper Chipmunk (aka Ellen)https://www.blogger.com/profile/15014954266777016841noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7380631593644516380.post-14057398888646878282012-07-06T10:30:23.136-07:002012-07-06T10:30:23.136-07:00Thanks for writing, Barbara.
Let us know how it go...Thanks for writing, Barbara.<br />Let us know how it goes!Alisahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04649805582936306865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7380631593644516380.post-54373166388045210082012-07-06T09:31:13.539-07:002012-07-06T09:31:13.539-07:00I think this will be an interesting book for our b...I think this will be an interesting book for our bookbinding group to explore. Thanks for the tutorial, Alisa. We refer to your books often.Barbara L.noreply@blogger.com