I saw a reference to a "huswif" or "hussif," a portable sewing roll used by both women and soldiers in the field (more info here and here), and since I have been working with scraps lately, it seemed a perfect interim project. There are various patterns online, but I did not find the particular one that I wanted. I made the first green one as more of a model, then made the brown one with step-by-step notes that I am happy to share.
The measurements and technique are based on my second sewing roll. It may be sewn by hand but definitely goes more quickly if a machine is used. The final size is 5.25" x 12".
Cloth needed: 6" x 13" lining material (won't be visible); 6" x 13" outer, decorative material; 2" x 16" strip for the tie; 3" x 6" piece for the top (This can be embroidered or stenciled or just more decorative material. If you want to embroider it, do it first); Suggested pocket sizes from top to bottom: 2" x 6" / 3" x 6" / 3" x 6" / 2.5" x 6" / 3" x 6" / 3" x 6"
Tools: needle and thread; sewing machine (optional); iron and ironing board; pencil; ruler; rotary cutter and mat; pins
These were my pieces at first: pockets and lining. I added another panel at the bottom that was 2.5" x 6", although it should have been 3" x 6" as I note in the Cloth Needed list.
2. Iron the tops of each pocket piece with a 1/4" hem, then fold over itself for clean edge (basically a rolled hem).
3. Line up the pockets to see how they will overlap. Each pocket should be able to cover up the bottom edge and stitching of the one above it. We haven't stitched them down yet. But after I had folded over the hems was when I saw I needed another pocket at the bottom.
3. Fold the tie in half and iron it. At one short end, fold in. Then fold the long edges in to the center fold and iron down so all raw edges are now tucked inside. (photo shows outer fabric with the tie resting on top.)
4. I used a hem foot and a regular foot to hem a double row of stitches at the tops of each pocket. If you have a double needle option on your sewing machine, that works also. I sewed with the hem foot first, then used that stitching as a guide for the regular-footed hem. Using a regular foot and just one line of stitching or hemming by hand is also fine.
5. Pin the pockets in place, centering two pins top to bottom, one on the right, one on the left to hold them all in place as you stitch down one at a time. I did one with just one pin in each and the pockets came out slightly crooked. It can add to the charm or annoy you, depending on who you are.
7. Repeat for each of the pocket pieces, sewing from top piece down to bottom piece, lifting up each as you go.
8. When all pieces are sewn to the lining, fold the project in half, lengthwise, all pockets inside and draw a rounded corner. Then cut it out.
9. Place the project face down on the face up decorative outer fabric and round the corners there as well.
10. Sew the tie by hemming the long edge and the folded short edge. I used a hem foot for mine since it sews very close to the edge. Again, you can sew with or add a row of running stitches with embroidery thread if you want to make it more decorative.
11. Place the tie on top of the opened project with the raw edge at the top and pin in place with one pin near the top and an optional pin to keep the end from getting caught as you sew the roll together.
12. Place the decorative fabric face down on the face-up project and pin in place horizontally across the pockets, making sure each pocket is lying flat underneath.
13. Sew around the edges with a 1/4" seam allowance starting from the bottom near the corner and finishing at the bottom, near the other corner, leaving a gap in the center so you can reach in and turn the project right-side out. The photo shows how it is sewn. Make sure the pockets are lying flat as you sew. I had one instance where the materials began bunching up and I had to rip it out until I found out where the bunching began.
14. Clip the two bottom corners just a bit. Do not clip too close to the stitching. This helps the corner be crisp and not bulky when they are right-side out.
15. Be careful of the one or two pins on the tie as you do this next thing! Reach in and turn the project right-side out, pushing the corners out with your fingers or a pencil. (Remove the two pins!)
16. Iron the bottom seams in to match and be even with the rest of the stitching.
17. With a needle and thread, sew up the bottom.
18. Iron flat.
Compact and great for tucking into a bag for travel or just having close by.
There are endless variations, and I can't stop making them.
Where the Patterns Came From
In my brown sewing roll, the top two patterns are from my favorite Japanese fabric shop, Kimonomomo, next is a linocut I printed for my quilt What Are We Becoming, a stencil I used in a couple of quilts mentioned here, one letterpress printed from wood type from Fire Line: Do Not Cross, a found batik fabric, and some text with DeColourant I had made recently but hadn't used. The back and tie are also from Kimonomomo.
In the green sewing roll, the top is a crumple-dyed piece with one of my crow stencils and beaded eye, next three were found or gifted fabric scraps, then my marbled piece, which is leftover from the quilt, Water Music, and lastly, a pieced piece that didn't make it into the Oak Forest quilts. The back and tie are my Spoonflower otter designs: Otter Dreams in kelp green and a black and white version that I hand-dyed.
Related Workshops at San Francisco Center for the Book
I see that Jody Alexander is teaching a workshop on how to make one of these at San Francisco Center for the Book: The Hussif: A Travel Sewing Kit on Sunday, October 4, 2026, 10am to 4pm. I took a class with her long ago. I love her aesthetic. She is a very good teacher, and I encourage you to sign up! You can see Jody's work at her website here
I see that Jody Alexander is teaching a workshop on how to make one of these at San Francisco Center for the Book: The Hussif: A Travel Sewing Kit on Sunday, October 4, 2026, 10am to 4pm. I took a class with her long ago. I love her aesthetic. She is a very good teacher, and I encourage you to sign up! You can see Jody's work at her website here
And the marbled cloth in the green sewing roll was a pattern I made years ago in Introduction to Fabric Marbling also at SF Center for the Book with Pietro Accardi, a splendid teacher and very knowledgeable. His September 27 workshop is full, and there is a wait list for that date. But he is teaching it again on December 12. My blog post about Pietro's workshop from 2019 is here. His website is here.
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